Getting Accustomed to Other Dogs
As soon as your puppy has had his vaccinations, begin
exposing him to other dogs. Even if he is too young to participate
take him to conformation or obedience classes to observe. Alternate
between having him in and out of his crate. Encourage people to go
over him and pet him. Although it would be unusual for a young pup
to be aggressive towards other dogs, discipline him if he shows any
signs of aggressiveness such as growling, snapping or excessive barking.
Of course, don't forget to give assurance and praise for proper behavior.
Do not be alarmed if your puppy who has always loved the world, one day
suddenly growls at the nearest dog. Usually this occurs between eight
months to a year of age. This is a sign he is leaving puppyhood and is
trying to establish his place in the pack. The pack instinct is very
strong in the Malamute and the more dominant dogs will try to establish
their superiority over the others. This lends to the aggressive behaviour
too frequently seen in the show ring and elsewhere. You must teach your
dog this is not acceptable behaviour. So be ready for the first growl.
Make the punishment so quick and so severe it will leave a lifetime impression.
If you are strong enough, pick him up by the ruff, shake him and shout, "No!" If not, then hit him under the jaw with your fist, hard, and shout, "No" at
him. Let him know you are really upset by his behaviour. If you administer the
discipline properly once or twice will be all it takes. From then on a firm "No" will
bring his attention back to you, and he soon learns it is much more pleasant
to just ignore other dogs.
Think of it as comparable to a small child who runs out in the street. You run
out, grab him, scold him and administer physical punishment because you realise
that if he continue this action, he'll very likely be killed or severely injured
by a car. A dog whose aggressive traits are not controlled by his master has
about as much chance of surviving in the show ring, on a sled team or as a family
pet as the small child who plays in the street.
Lead Training
I find that leash training is the most difficult lesson to make enjoyable because it does require restraint and discipline. However, if you are generous with praise and treats the pup will soon associate the leash with pleasant experiences at the same time that he learns to respect it and your commands. I start a young pup on a 3/16 inch flat Resco show lead. Place the lead right where the neck and skull join, with the lead coming up between the ears. First let the pup go wherever he pleases and just hang on to the end of the lead. Continue this until he seems accustomed to having the lead on. Then as you are walking along with him call him, change directions giving a slight tug on the leash, enough to turn his head in the direction you are taking. At the same time start coaxing him to come. If he does, give lots of praise or even a pat if he comes next to you, but keep on going. Repeat this procedure until he has learned that a tug on the leash means he must change directions.The next step is to teach him to walk beside you on a loose lead. This is similar to teaching a dog to heel in obedience only you command the dog to stand when you stop and you work your dog on the right side as well as the left side. Corrections are always made with a sharp jerk, release and lots of praise for correct response. Talk to your dog in an encouraging happy voice. Convince him this is fun. Make left and right turns and complete turns at a walk until he responds properly and happily. If you are teaching an older puppy or an adult dog who pulls constantly, use a slip collar and leash until he has learned to walk with you on a loose lead. Although this may sound exactly like obedience training for heeling there are some slight important differences. First you do not want your dog to gait looking up at you. This will cause him to throw the outside elbow outward or perhaps even cause side winding. You want him to look straight ahead. Therefore you should make a habit of moving slightly ahead of him. This way he can watch you for changes in direction and pace without turning his head. Also you do not let the lead drop down beside the dog in the typical obedience loop.
A loose lead in conformation means only that there is no tension on the lead which would interfere with the dogs movement. Unfortunately not all dogs in the show ring have been properly trained, and if another dog should run up on your dog from behind or attack him by the time you reel in your extra lead, they would be into a fight. If you have the proper tension on the lead you will be able to feel the growl through the lead, a shift in weight or even a tensing of the muscles in the neck. This gives you time to anticipate your dog's action and intercept it. For instance, if a dog is going to move his left foot he has to shift his weight to the right one. When gaiting, have only enough lead out of your hand to allow your dog to move in the proper position without interference from you or the lead. The excess lead is folded up in the palm of the hand nearest the dog. Flexion of the wrist should be all that is necessary to tighten the lead. This gives you good control of your dog. He will know you have control and pay attention to our commands.
As soon as you have your dog walking with you in the proper position gradually increase you speed until he is trotting. Practice turns as before and practice with the dog on both the left and right side. If your dog drops his head, correct with a sharp jerk upward and at the same time say enthusiastically, "heads up" or "lets go". The leash must be directly behind the skull, not down on the neck, to make an effective correction. Don't be afraid to talk to your dog while gaiting. A happy dog moving out freely is a beautiful sight.
